Suzuki gn 125 service manual free download

Replace the reservoir cap to prevent entry of dirt. Attach a pipe to the caliper bleeder valve, and insert the free end of the pipe into a receptacle.

Squeeze and release the brake lever several times in rapid succession, and squeeze the lever fully without releasing it. Loosen the bleeder valve by turning it a quarter of a turn so that the brake fluid runs into the receptacle; this will remove the tension of the brake lever causing it to touch the handlebar grip. Then close the valve, pump and squeeze the lever, and open the valve.

Repeat this process until the fluid flowing into the receptacle no longer contains air bubbles. Replenish the brake fluid reservoir as necessary while bleeding the brake system. Make sure that there is always some fluid visible in the reservoir. Close the bleeder valve, and disconnect the pipe. Handle the brake fluid with care: the fluid reacts chemically with paint, plastics, rubber materials, etc.

If the brake light switch works inflexible, inspect, adjust or replace. Rear brake pedal travel Rear brake travel 2 is the distance from stepping on the brake pedal until the brake begins taking effect. Turn the rear brake adjuster 3 to adjust the travel 2 to mm. The motorcycle is equipped with brake lining wear limit indicator on rear brakes. To check wear of the break lining, follow the steps below.

Check if the brake system is properly adjusted first. While operating the brake, check to see the extension line 11 from the index mark 2 is within the range on the brake panel. If the index mark is outside the range as shown in the illustration at right, the brake shoes should be replaced to ensure safe operation.

Adjust rear brake light switch so that brake light will come on just before a pressure is felt when the brake pedal is stepped. Check the tire pressure and surface during the maintenance. There are serial marks 1 T. Tire Wear Indicator in the edge of the tire. Check the block 2 of T. If the tire wears off to reach the boss, the tire should be replaced.

Check the damage 3 punctures or fractures on the tire surface visually. As surface damage may impede driving stability, such tires should be replaced. Proper tire pressure and condition affect vehicle performance. Please check the tire pressure and surface condition periodically. Steering stem bearings should be adjusted properly for smooth turning of the handlebars and safe running.

Steering which is too stiff prevents smooth movement of handlebar. Steering which is too loose will cause vibration and damage to the steering bearing. Check to see that there is no play in the front fork attachment.

If the play is found, perform the steering bearing adjustment as described in page of this manual. Check for leaks or damage. Replace damaged parts and tighten all bolts and nuts. Inspect the rear absorber spring for damage, deformation or oil leakage. The nuts and bolts listed are important parts, and they must be in good condition for safety.

They must be re-tightened, as necessary, to the specified torque with a torque wrench. Cylinder compression is an indicator of its inner state. The necessity of repair depends on the result of inspection. The record of your authorized maintenance dealer should include compression pressure readings obtained in every maintenance.

A low compression pressure may indicate any of the following malfunctions: Excessively worn cylinder wall. Worn piston or piston rings. Piston rings stuck in the grooves.

Poor seating contact of valves. Defective cylinder head gasket. When the compression pressure noted is down to or below the limit indicated above, the engine must be disassembled, inspected and repaired as required. Oil pressure inspection procedure Support the motorcycle with the main stand; Install the oil pressure gauge in the position shown in the illustration. Warm up the engine as follows. Summer: approx. Winter: approx. Oil pressure specification Above 10 kPa 0.

A low oil pressure may indicate any of the following malfunctions: Engine strainer clogging Oil leakage at oil hole O-ring damage Engine oil pump damage Any concurrence of the above. A high oil pressure may indicate any of the following malfunctions: Excessive viscosity of engine oil Oil hole clogging Any concurrence of the above. The procedure of engine removal is sequentially explained in the following steps: Support the motorcycle with main stand.

Drain the engine oil. Remove the left and right seat mounting bolts and left rear shock absorber nut, then take off the seat. Disconnect the fuel gauge coupler. Take off the fuel tank by removing the mounting bolts 1. Remove the crankcase breather pipe 9. Remove the speedometer cable mounting screw, take off the speedometer cable assembly Take off the engine sprocket cover Disconnect the ground wire 12 from the crankcase.

Take off the drive chain by removing the clip Remove the engine front mounting bolt 18 and engine lower hanging plate bolt 19 , take off the engine lower hanging plate. Remove the engine upper mounting bolt 20 and rear lower mounting bolt Remove the rear swing arm shaft nut 22, draw out the rear swing arm shaft, take out the engine from the right side.

Be careful not to draw out the swing arm pivot shaft completely from the left side swing arm pivot hole , Insert the shaft or rod into the right side pivot hole from the right side of the frame to keep the alignment of the frame holes and swing arm pivot holes.

Temporarily fasten the engine mounting bracket before inserting the engine mounting bolts. NOTE : The engine mounting nuts are self-lock nuts. Once the nut has been removed, it is no longer of any use.

Be sure to use new nuts and tighten them to the specified torque. Align the release arm slit surface with the notch mark on the release cam shaft. Notch mark. After installing the engine, pour the engine oil into the engine. Refer to page Inspect the oil level. Refer to page Inspect the throttle cable page Inspect the clutch cable page Inspect the idling speed page Inspect the drive chain page Refer to page Remove the generator cover cap 1 and valve timing inspect- ing plug 2.

When removing cylinder head cover , piston must be at top dead center on compression stroke. Loosen the cylinder head cover bolts diagonally. Do not remove Remove the cylinder head cover. The cam chain tensioner bolt A is to be removed only when disassembling the engine. If it is difficult to remove the cylinder head , gently pry it off while tapping the finless portion of the cylinder head with a plastic hammer.

Be careful not to break the fins. Take out the valve spring retainers , inner springs and outer springs. Pull out the valves from the other side. Check points are shown in Fig. If the distortion exceeds the limit, replace the cylinder head cover. Rocker arm shaft O. IN and EX : CAMSHAFT The camshaft should be checked for runout and also for wear of cams and journals if the engine has been noted to produce abnormal noise or vibration or a lack of output power.

Worn-down cams are often the cause of mistimed valve H operation resulting in reduced output power. The limit of cam wear is specified for both intake and exhaust cams in terms of cam height H , which is to be measured with a micrometer. Replace camshafts if found it worn down to the limit.

Use the plastigage to read the clearance at the widest portion, install the cylinder head cover and tighten the cylinder head cover bolts to the specified torque. Remove the cylinder head cover and measure the width of the compressed plastigage using the envelope scale. This measurement should be taken at the widest part of the compressed plastigage. If the camshaft journal oil clearance measured exceeds the limit, measure the outside diameter of camshaft. Replace either the cylinder head set or the camshaft if the clearance is incorrect.

Measure the runout with a dial gauge. Replace the cam- shaft if the runout exceeds the limit. Camshaft runout limit: 0. Valve spring free length imit: IN. Check the gasketed surface of the cylinder head for distor- tion with a straightedge and thickness gauge. Measure the valve stem O. Valve stem O. Measure the thickness A , and if the thickness is found to have been reduced to the limit, replace the valve. Visually inspect each valve for wear of its seating A face. Replace any valve with an abnormally worn face.

The valve must be replaced if the runout exceeds the limit. Valve stem runout limit: 0. Place the dial gauge at right angles to the valve head, and measure the valve head radial runout. If it measures more the limit, replace the valve.

Coat the valve seat with Prussian Blue uniformly. Hold the valve with valve lapper, fit the valve and tap the coated seat with the valve face in a rotating manner in order to obtain a clear impression contact. The impression contact can be used to check the contact o surface institute, the contact position. In addition, the width of the dye ring, which is the visualized seat "width", must be within the specification.

Do not use lapping compound after the final cut is made. The finished valve seat should have a velvety 45 O smooth finish but not a highly polished or shiny finish. This will provide a soft surface for the final seating of valve seat the valve which will occur during the first few seconds of engine operation.

Check the contact surface institute. If found any defective, service the valve seat. Damaged surface Uneven contact surface. Check the contact position. Contact surface is too high. Finish the valve seat surface again to standard range with 45 o reamer. NOTE: The valve seat position will affect the contact surface 60o of valve, this is very important to the good sealing. Contact surface is too low. Check the contact width.

After the desired seat position and width is achieved, apply a layer of lapping compound and use the reamer very lightly to service the valve seat.

After servicing, clean up the remaining lapping compound on the cylinder head and valve. Check the valve seat contact surface again. If the lapping pressure is too big, valve seat will be possibly distorted or damaged.

Change the lapping tool angel frequently to prevent valve seat surface from being uneven. If the lapping compound get into the middle of the valve and valve guide will possibly lead to damage. Clean and assemble cylinder head and valve components. Fill intake and exhaust ports with gasoline to check for leaks and worn seals. If any leaks occur, check the valve seat and face for burrs or other defects that could prevent the valve from fully seating.

Gasoline is very explosive, be sure to keep the work area well ventilated. Keep away from fire and spark. Clean the cylinder head thoroughly with a cleaning liquid and blow all passages with compressed air.

In order to avoid oil seal damage, the valve oil seal should be mounted while the valve is rotating slowly. Install the valve spring washer, inner spring, outer spring Large-pitch and retainer. Install valve springs , making sure that the close- Large-pitch pitch end of each spring goes in first to rest on the head.

Close-pitch Cylinder head. Lubricate the rocker arm shaft with engine oil. Mount the rocker arm, rocker spring, flexuous washer and rocker arm to the cylinder head cover. Install the four nuts and washers, tighten the nuts to specified torque. Copper washer Copper washer. Apply the Moly paste to the tip of cam. Install the camshaft, sprocket and chain. Bring the piston to top dead center before installing the.

Align the marks on the camshaft so it is parallel with the surface of the cylinder head. Apply Thread lock to the bolts. Install the two dowel pins on the cylinder head. Apply the Bond No. Refer to page Remove the gasket, dowel pins and guide rod. Remove the cylinder. Check the gasketed surface of the cylinder for distortion with a stragihtedge and thickness gauge.

Inspect the cylinder bore for wear or damage. Measure the cylinder bore diameter at six places. If any one of the measurements exceeds the limit, overhaul the cylinder and replace the piston with an oversize, or replace the cylinder. Place a clean rag over the cylinder base to prevent piston pin circlip from dropping into crankcase. Remove the piston pin circlip.

Remove the piston pin and piston with the special tool. When removing the piston ring, be careful not to damage the piston. Do not expand the piston ring excessively since it is apt to be broken down. Using a soft-metal scrapper or discarded piston ring to decarbon the ring grooves of the piston. Do not use the steel brush or the piston will be scratched.

Measure the clearance between the piston ring and groove with a thickness gauge. Measure the piston outside diameter at the place 8mm from the skirt end with a micrometer. Piston outside diameter limit: 8mm Fit the rings in the cylinder, and measure each ring end gap with a thickness gauge. If any ring has an excess end gap, replace the ring. Piston ring end gap limit: 1st: 0. Pay attention to the following points: Clean the top, skirt or groove of the piston.

Hold each piston ring with the piston rings properly spaced and insert them into the cylinder. Check to insure that piston rings are properly inserted in the the cylinder skirt. Be careful do not damage the piston ring and piston when installing the piston ring. Make sure to position the gaps of the top ring and 2nd ring as required. Install the piston rings in the order of oil ring, 2nd ring and 1st ring.

Do not align the gap of oil ring with expander ring. Place a clean rag over the cylinder base to prevent piston pin circlip from dropping into crankcase, and then fit the piston pin circlip with long-nose pliers.

Replace with a new piston pin circlip to prevent circlip slipping from position. End gap of the circlip should not be aligned with the cutaway in the piston pin bore. When installing the piston , the indent on the piston head must be located to the exhaust side. Before assembling the cylinder head, apply oil to conrod big end, small end and piston sliding part.

Install the dowel pins , then install the gasket. Hold each piston ring with their properly spaced and insert them into the cylinder.

Check to insure that the piston rings are properly inserted into the cylinder skirt. NOTE: When mounting the cylinder , after attaching camshaft 2 drive chain , keep the camshaft drive chain taut, The camsahft drive chain must not be caught between cam drive chain sprocket and crankcase when crankshaft is rotated. There is a holder for the bottom end of the cam chain guide cast in the crankcase.

Be sure that the guide is inserted properly or binding of the cam chain and guide may result. Remove the oil filter cover nuts, take off the oil filter cover. Remove the clutch cover screws diagonally, take off the clutch cover 2. Remove the gasket and dowel pins. Flatten the lock washer.. Hold the clutch hub with the special tool, remove the clutch hub nut and lock washer. Replace the drive plates found to have worn down to the limit. Drive plate thickness limit: 2. Measure each driven plate for distortion with a thickness gauge.

Replace all driven plates if any of them exceeds the limit. Replace the drive and drive plates as a whole set which Checking distortion exceed the limit. Inspect the clutch release bearing for any abnormality, parti- cularly cracks, to decide whether it can be reused or should be replaced.

Smooth engagement and disengagement of the clutch de- pend on the condition of this bearing. Primary driven gear is composed as shown.

If the play is too big, replace the primary driven gear assembly with a new one. Install the lock washer, tighten the clutch sleeve hub nut to the specified torque. Bend the clutch sleeve hub washer to the nuts. Install the clutch drive plates and driven plates. Install the clutch push rod, push piece, bearing, washer and pressure plate. Install the clutch spring, tighten the clutch spring bolts dia- gonally.

Install a new gasket and pins. Install the clutch cover, and tighten clutch cover bolts dia- gonally. Install a new oil seal ring. Install the oil filter and oil filter cover. Tighten three nuts. Install and adjust clutch cable, and pour engine oil. Refer to page and page If the oil pump does not move smoothly, replace it. Remove the clutch. Remove the gear shifting shaft 1. Remove the screws, gear shifting cam guide plate 2 and 3.

Remove the gear shifting driven gear 4 , pawl 5 , gear shifting pawl pin 6 and return spring 7. Install the cam guide. Remove the generator rotor nut while holding the generator rotor with the special tool. Hold the generator rotor with the special tool, remove the starting clutch bolt. The gear turns one direction only. If a large resistance is felt to rotation, inspect the starter clutch for damage or inspect the starter clutch contacting surface of the starter driven gear for wear or damage.

If they are found to be damaged, replace them with new ones. Install the trigger coil 2 , apply Thread lock to the screw head and tighten it. Apply bond to the grommet 3 groove. Clean the starter clutch, apply engine oil to the separate ring, Fit the starter clutch on the rotor. Apply the Tread lock to the starter clutch, tighten the bolts to the specified torque. When installing the rotor, align the rotor key slot with the key on the crankshaft.

Install the generator nut, tighten the nut to the specified torque. Refer to page Remove the clutch and gear shifting shaft. Refer to page 3- 21 Remove the generator rotor and starting clutch. Refer to page Remove the neutral locate screw plug and oil filter cover. Do not take off the neutral locating screw plug inner hexagon when drain the engine oil. Clamp the conrod small end with conrod holder, remove the lock washer, remove the primary drive gear lock nut. Remove the gear shifting cam guide.

Remove the gear shifting cam driven gear assembly. Remove the gear switch position screws, take off the gear position switch, pin and spring. Remove the two bolts, take off the drive shaft oil seal block plate. Fit the crankcase separator, so that the tool plate is parallel with the end face of the crankcase. Remove the right crankcase with the special tool. The crankshaft and transmission components must remain in the left crankcase half, This is necessary because the gear shifting cam stopper is mounted on the left crankcase half and will be damaged if the transmission components remain in the right half.

Remove the gear shifting hub fixing spring. Remove the gear shifting shafts, take off the forks. Remove the gear shifting hub. NOTE: Two kinds of gear shifting forks, 1 and 2 , are used.

They resemble each other very closely in extermal appearance and configuration. Carefully examine the illustration for correct installing positions and directions. Measure the crankshaft runout with the dial gauge. Crankshaft runout limit: 0. Using a thickness gauge, check the shifting fork clearance in the groove of its gear.

If the clearance limit exceeds by any gear, determine whether the gear or the gear shifting fork should be replaced by measuring the thickness and groove width. Fork thickness: No. Gear shifting groove width: No. Inspect the gear shifting hub guide slot. Inspect each bush, gear inner surface and gear teeth face for abnormal wear or poor lubrication. Rotate the inner race by hand to inspect for an abnormal noise and a smooth rotation and inspect to see if the outer race is movable in the crankcase.

Replace the bearing if there is something unusual. Remove the crankshaft bearing, countershaft bearing and driveshaft bearing with the special tool. Decide the width between the webs when rebuilding the crankshaft. Width between webs: Standard: When mounting the crankshaft in the crankcase, it is necessary to pull its left end into the crankcase. Never fit the crankshaft into the crankcase by striking it with a plastic hammer. Always use the special tool , otherwise crankshaft alignment accuracy will be affected.

After a circlip has been removed from a shaft, it should be discarded and a new circlip must be installed. When installing a new circlip, care must be taken not to expand the end gap larger than required to slip the circlip over the shaft.

After installing a circlip, always insure that it is completely seated in its groove and securely fitted. Press-fit 2nd drive gear onto the counter shaft. Countershaft length A : Fit the gear shifting hub on the crankcase. Position the hub as shown in Fig. Remove sealant material on the fitting surfaces of right and left halves of crankcase and thoroughly remove oil stains.

Fit dowel pins on the left halt. Apply engine oil to the big end of the crankshaft and all parts of the transmission gears. Apply Bond No. After the gear shifting hub driven gear, guide, shifting shaft and neutral stopper have been fitted, confirm that gear change is normal while turning the countershaft and driveshaft.

If gear change is not obtained, it means that assembly of gears or installation of gear shifting fork is incorrect. If this is th e case, disassemble and trace the mistake. Hold the conrod small end with conrod holder, tighten the primary drive gear nut to the specified torque. Bend the washer to the primary drive gear nut. Install the generator and starting clutch. Refer to page Install the clutch and gear shifting shaft. Refer to page and Install the cylinder and cylinder head.

Refer to page and Install the engine, and add the oil. Rust from the fuel tank tends to build up in the filter, which, when the filter has been neglected for a long period, inhibits the flow of fuel.

Remove the rust from the filter using compressed air. Pay attention to the following points: Gasket. Needle jet B P -0 Idle air jet G 1. Idle jet C Remove the carburetor clamp screw 2. Remove the float pin screws. Pull out the float pin and remove the float and needle valve. Remove the main jet A. A Remove the Bubbling jet B. Remove the idle jet C. Clean the float chamber and float parts with gasoline, if the needle is worn as shown in the illustration, replace it together with a valve seat.

Clean the fuel passage of the mixing chamber with compressed air. A Adjust the throttle cable play as follows. Slide the boot, loosen the lock nut 1 of the throttle pulling cable, turn the adjuster 2 clockwise or counterclockwise until the throttle cable play at the throttle grip is between 0.

Tighten the lock nut 1 after adjusting the play, Recheck that handlebar movement does not raise the engine idle speed and that the throttle grip returns smoothly and automatically.

Throttle cable play: 0. If engine running is needed in work, be sure to keep the work area well ventilated. Do not run engine in an closed space. In engine exhaust gas, there is carbon monoxide that leads to loss of consciousness or leads to death. Engine running is allowable only at a well ventilated place or in an enclosure with exhaust gas discharge system. Idle air screw is factory-installed and set.

Adjustment is not necessary unless carburetor needs to be disassembled for inspection or screws need to be replaced. For accurate adjustment, a ten-minute engine preheating is necessary. Turn in the idle air screw until it lightly seats , then back it out the pre-set turns.

Adjust the idle speed by means of the pilot screw. Adjust idle speed to specified value by means of pilot screw. In case of unstable engine running, repeat till the engine running is easy and stable. Camshaft journal Conrod small end bearing and cam face. Countershaft bearing Oil filter Driveshaft bearing. Primary driven gear spacer Sump filter. Disconnect the front brake and speedometer cable 1. Remove the front axle nut 2 , take off the front wheel 3.

An excessive amount of runout is usually due to loose spokes or a bent wheel rim. If properly tightening the spokes will not correct the runout, replace the wheel rim.

Rotate the inner race by hand to inspect whether abnormal noise occurs or rotating smoothly. Pay special attention to the following points.

Install the new dust seals using the special tool. Install the brake disc, tighten to the brake disc bolts to the specified torque.

When tightening the front axle, check to be sure that speedometer gear box is in the position shown. After installing the front wheel, pump the brake lever until the pistons push the pads correctly.

Remove the two bolts and dismount the front caliper 1. Remove the four handlebar holder clamp bolts, take off the handle bar 3 , then remove the two front absorber cap bolts. Remove the decoration plate.

Loosen the lower bracket clamp bolts, put down the left and right front absorbers. Remove the oil lock piece and damper rod with rebound spring. Separate the inner tube from the outer tube. If it is shorter than the service limit, replace it. Hold the front absorber vertical and adjust the absorber oil level with the special tool.

Pay attention to the following points: Apply a small quantity of absorber oil to the O-ring 1 on the front absorber. Install the front absorbers to the upper and lower bracket, tighten the front absorber cap bolts 2 to the specified torque. Refer to page Remove the front absorber. Refer to page Remove the two screws and take off the headlight. Remove the lead wires from the headlight housing.

Remove the two bolts and take off the headlight housing. Remove the two nuts and take off the turn signal lights, right and left. Loosen the lower bracket bolts. Remove the ignition switch cover.

Remove the handlebar holder clamp bolts, take off the handlebar 1. Remove the front absorber cap bolts and steering stem nut, take off the upper bracket. Take off the front absorbers. Draw out the two inner races fitted to the top and bottom m ends of the head pipe with the special tool. Handlebars distortion. Handlebars clamp wear.

Race wear and brinelling. Worn or damaged steel balls. Distortion of steering stem. Press in the lower outer race with the special tool. Install and ighten the front absorber bolts and the brake caliper bolts. Finally check that the steering stem moves freely from left to right with its own weight. If play or stiffness is noticeable, re-adjust the steering stem nut.

Secure the each handlebar clamp in such a way that the clearance A ahead of and behind the handlebar should be equalized. Do not use or mix different types of fuid such as silicone-based and petroleum-based fluid for refilling the system, otherwise serious damage will be caused.

Do not use any brake fluid taken from old or used or unsealed containers. Never re-use the brake fluid left over from the last servicing and stored for long periods. When storing the brake fluid, seal the container completely and keep away from children. When replenishing brake fluid, take care not to get dust into fluid. When washing brake components, use new brake fluid.

Never use cleaning solvent. A contaminated brake disc or brake pad reduces braking performance. Discard contaminated pads and clean the disc with high quality brake cleaner or neutral detergent. The brake fluid reacts chemically with paint, plastics and rubber materials, etc.

Replace brake pads as a set; otherwise braking per- formance will be adversely affected. Reinstall the new brake pads and the caliper.

Tighten the caliper mounting bolts to the specified torque. Remove the caliper mounting bolts 2 and then take off the caliper. Never reuse brake fluid left over from the last servicing or stored for a long period of time. Do not operate the brake lever with the pads removed. If any defects are found, replace the affected parts. Wash the master cylinder components with fresh brake fluid before reassembly.

Never use cleaning solvent or gasoline to wash them. Apply brake fluid to the cylinder bore and all internal parts before inserting into the bore. Brake fluid, if it leaks, will interfere with safe running and immediately discolor painted surfaces. Check the brake hoses for cracks and hose joint for leakage before riding. Unscrew the union bolt and disconnect the brake hose from the master cylinder joint. Remove two clamp bolts and take off the master cylinder.

Immediately and completely wipe off any brake fluid contacting any part of the motorcycle. The fluid reacts chemically with paint, plastics, rubber materials, etc. Remove two fitting screws, and remove the cap and diaphragm.

Drain the brake fluid. Remove the dust seal boot. Remove the circlip, piston and spring by using the special tool. Inspect the piston surface for scratches or other damage. Inspect the primary cup, secondary cup and dust seal boot for wear or damage.

Brake fluid specification: Suzuki brake fluid. When washing the components, use the specified brake fluid. Never use different types of fluid or Master cylinder cleaning solvents such as gasoline, kerosine, etc. Do not wipe the brake fluid off after washing the components. UP Apply brake fluid to the cylinder bore and all internal parts before inserting into the bore. When remounting the master cylinder on the handlebars, Cleanrance tighten the clamp bolts for upside as shown first.

Bleed air from brake system after installing the master cylinder. Remove the rear brake adjuster nut. Puff off the cotter pin, remove the torque link nut and bolt. Remove the rear axle nut.

Loosen the chain adjuster lock nut and adjuster bolt, right and left. Draw out the axle shaft and take off the chain from rear sprocket. Take off the rear wheel and separate the brake panel from the wheel. Flatten the washers and remove the four nuts. Separate the rear sprocket and mounting drum from the wheel. Remove the cam lever nut and bolt. Pull off the brake cam, washer, O-ring and cam lever. Replace the bearing if there are any defects. If they are worn as illustrated, replace the sprocket and drive chain.

Normal Excessive wear. D to determine the extent of wear and, if the limit is exceeded by the wear noted, replace the drum. The value of this limit is indicated inside the drum. Replace the brake shoes as a set , otherwise braking performance will adversely affected. Be careful not to apply too much grease to the brake cam. If the grease gets on the lining, the brake slippage will result. Remove the chain case mounting screws, take off the chain case. Apply grease to the spacer and dust seal cover when installing.

Insert the swing arm pivot shaft from the left side, and tighten the pivot shaft nut to specified torque. Tighten the rear absorber nut to the specified torque. Depressing the starter switch on the right handlebar switch box energizes the relay, causing the contact points to close which connects the starter motor to the battery. The motor draws about 70 amperes to start the engine.

Fuse Clutch switch Battery Starter motor. Ignition switch is ON position Fuse is not blown before the diagnosis. Starter motor will not run. Check whether to run the starter motor when connect the starter Check whether to hear the click motor terminal to the battery Clicks noise from the starter relay when terminal directly. Do not use thin the starter button is pushed.

Not run Run No click Faulty starter motor Faulty starter relay Loose or disconnected starting to next page motor lead wire. Faulty front brake light switch Faulty rear brake light switch Faulty starter button Voltage measured Poor contact of connector Open circuit in wiring harness. Check the starter relay Incorrect Faulty starting relay Refer to page Starter motor runs, Open circuit in wiring harness but does not start engine. Refer to page Disassemble the starter motor as shown.

If either carbon brush is defective, replace the brush with a new one. Measure the length of the carbon brushes using a vernier calipers. If the measurement is less then the service limit, replace the brush with a new one. If the commutator is abnormally worn, replace the armature.

If the commutator surface is discolored, polish it with sandpaper and wipe it using a clean, dry cloth. If there is no continuity between the segments or there is continuity between the segments and shaft, replace the armature with a new one. Align the match mark 3 on the starter motor case with the match mark 4 on the housing end inside. Remove the starter motor lead wire. If the starter relay clicks and continuity is found, the relay is OK.

Measure the relay coil resistance between the terminals using the multi circuit tester. If the resistance is not within the specified value, replace the starter relay with a new one. This energy is released in a single surge at the specified ignition timing point, and current flows through the primary side of the ignition coil. A high voltage current is induced in the secondary windings of the ignition coil resulting in strong spark between the spark plug cap. Inspect that the fuse is not blown before the diagnosis.

Inspect the battery voltage Less than 12V Recharge the battery or replace the battery 12V. Inspect the ignition circuit Incorrect Faulty ignition switch Broken wire harness or poor Correct contact of related circuit connectors. Inspect the resistence of ignition coil with the pocket tester. Trigger coil Measure resistance between lead wires using multi-circuit tester.

If resistance is out of specified values, replace with new trigger coil. The AC current generated from AC generator is converted by rectifier and is turned into DC current, then is charges the battery. Ignition switch. Load Battery. Check accessories which excessively Installed Remove accessories waste electric power Not installed.

Inspect battery leak current Leak Short circuit of wiring harness. Loose or disconnected wires. No leak Faulty battery. Inspect charging voltage Correct Faulty battery. Abnormal driving condition. Inspect continuity of generator coils No continuity Faulty generator coils or disconnected lead wires. Inspect generator no-load voltage Incorrect Faulty generator.

Inspect wirings, Incorrect Short circuit of wiring harness. Poor contact of couplers. Correct Faulty battery. Faulty battery. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position. Disconnect the battery lead wire.

Measure voltage between the battery - terminal and the specified ground cable terminal. If the reading exceeds the specified value, then leakage is present.

Do not turn the ignition switch to the ON position when measuring current. Disconnect generator coupler 1. Measure the resistence between the lead wires, if the resistence is incorrect, replace the generator coil.

Measure the DC voltage between the battery terminal and with a pocket tester. Refer to page Start engine and keep it running at 5, rpm. Measure voltage between generator terminal and ground by using the pocket tester. If the reading is below standard values, replace with a new generator coil. Refer to page Remove the fuel level gauge.

Refer to page Check the resistance of each float position with a pocket tester. If the resistance measured is incorrect, replace the fuel A gauge assembly with a new one. B The relation between the position of the fuel gauge float and resistance is shown in the following table. Refer to page To test the fuel meter two different checks may be used. The second test will check the accuracy of the meter in the full and empty positions.

Fuel meter is normal if its pointer indicates the E empty position when the specified resistance is applied to the circuit and if its pointer indicates the F full position when the resistor is changed to ohms. If either one or both indications are abnormal, replace the fuel meter with a new one. When inspecting the gauge resistance, be sure to disconnect the battery lead wire, or a pocket tester may be damaged. Refer to page Disassemble the dashboard assembly as follows.

If the continuity measured is incorrect, replace the respective parts. When making this test, it is not necessary to remove the dashboard. If any abnormality is found, replace the respective switch assemblies with new ones. In fitting the battery to the motorcycle, connect the breather tube to the battery vent. Fill battery with electrolyte dilute sulfuric acid solution with acid concentration of Leave battery standing for half an hour after filing.

Add additional electrolyte if necessary. Charge battery with current as described in the tables shown below. Near the end of charging period, adjust the specific gravity of electrolyte to value specified. Servicing Visually inspect the surface of the battery container. When installing the rotor, align the rotor key slot with the key on the crankshaft. Install the generator nut, tighten the nut to the specified torque.

Refer to page Remove the clutch and gear shifting shaft. Refer to page 3- Remove the generator rotor and starting clutch. Refer to page Remove the neutral locate screw plug and oil filter cover. Do not take off the neutral locating screw plug inner hexagon when drain the engine oil.

Remove the right crankcase with the special tool. Conrod big end clearance limit: 0. Measure the crankshaft runout with the dial gauge. Crankshaft runout limit: 0. Inspect each bush, gear inner surface and gear teeth face for abnormal wear or poor lubrication. Rotate the inner race by hand to inspect for an abnormal noise and a smooth rotation and inspect to see if the outer race is movable in the crankcase.

Page 67 ENGINE Never crankshaft into crankcase striking it with a plastic hammer Always use the special tool otherwise crankshaft alignment accuracy will be affected. After a circlip has been removed from a shaft, it should be discarded and a new circlip must be installed.

Countershaft length : They resemble each other very closely in extermal appearance and configuration. Pay attention to the following points: Gasket Install the fuel cock.

Remove the carburetor diaphragm cover. Remove the spring, diaphragm and piston. Remove the float chamber body. Pull out the float pin and remove the float and needle valve. Adjust the throttle cable play as follows Slide the boot, loosen the lock nut of the throttle pulling cable, turn the adjuster Disconnect the front brake and speedometer cable Remove the front axle nut , take off the front wheel Do not operate the front brake lever when removing the front wheel.

Remove the speedometer gearbox assembly Remove the front axle spacer and front wheel assembly dust seal Pay special attention to the following points. Install the brake disc, tighten to the brake disc bolts to the specified torque. Remove the two bolts and dismount the front caliper Remove the four bolts and take off the front fender Remove the four handlebar holder clamp bolts, take off the handle bar , then remove the two front absorber cap bolts. Remove the damper rod bolt by using the special tools and hexagon wrench.

If it is shorter than the service limit, replace it. Pay attention to the following points: Apply a small quantity of absorber oil to the O-ring the front absorber.

Absorber oil type: 34 Install the front absorbers to the upper and lower bracket, tighten the front absorber cap bolts to the specified torque. Refer to page Remove the front absorber.

Refer to page Remove the two screws and take off the headlight. Disconnect the couplers and lead wires. Remove the lead wires from the headlight housing. Remove the two bolts and take off the headlight housing. Remove the ignition switch cover. Remove the handlebar holder clamp bolts, take off the handlebar Remove the front absorber cap bolts and steering stem nut, take off the upper bracket. Take off the front absorbers. Number of balls: Upper: 22 pcs Lower: 18 pcs Remove the outer race fitted on the steering stem.

This can be down with a chisel. Draw out the two inner races fitted to the top and bottom ends of the head pipe with the special tool. Tighten the steering stem head bolts to the specified torque. Do not use or mix different types of fuid such as silicone-based and petroleum-based fluid for refilling the system, otherwise serious damage will be caused.

Remove the caliper mounting bolts and then take off the caliper. Never reuse brake fluid left over from the last servicing or stored for a long period of time.

Do not operate the brake lever with the pads removed. If any defects are found, replace the affected parts. Refer to page Brake fluid, if it leaks, will interfere with safe running and immediately discolor painted surfaces.

Page Wash the master cylinder components with fresh brake fluid before reassembly. Brake fluid specification: Suzuki brake fluid When washing the components, use the specified brake fluid. Never use different types of fluid or Master cylinder cleaning solvents such as gasoline, kerosine, etc. Remove the rear brake adjuster nut. Puff off the cotter pin, remove the torque link nut and bolt. Remove the rear axle nut. Loosen the chain adjuster lock nut and adjuster bolt, right and left.

Remove the right and left side wheel bearings. It will be easier to remove the left side bearing first. Take off the brake shoes. Remove the cam lever nut and bolt. Pull off the brake cam, washer, O-ring and cam lever. Axle shaft runout limit: 0. If they are worn as illustrated, replace the sprocket and drive chain. First install the bearing for right side. If the grease gets on the lining, the brake slippage will result.

Remove the chain case mounting screws, take off the chain case. Remove the swing arm pivot nut and draw out the shaft Remove the swing arm Pull off the cotter pin and remove the nut and bolt Remove the torque link Pivot shaft runout limit: 0.

Depressing the starter switch on the right handlebar switch box energizes the relay, causing the contact points to close which connects the starter motor to the battery. Faulty front brake light switch Faulty rear brake light switch Faulty starter button Voltage measured Poor contact of connector Open circuit in wiring harness Check the starter relay If the resistance is not within the specified value, replace the starter relay with a new one.

This energy is released in a single surge at the specified ignition timing point, and current flows through the primary side of the ignition coil. A high voltage current is induced in the secondary windings of the ignition coil resulting in strong spark between the spark plug cap.

The AC current generated from AC generator is converted by rectifier and is turned into DC current, then is charges the battery. Correct Incorrect Inspect wirings, Short circuit of wiring harness. Poor contact of couplers. Correct Faulty battery. Battery overcharge Faulty battery.

Measure the DC voltage between the battery terminal and with a pocket tester. Refer to page Remove the fuel level gauge. Refer to page Check the resistance of each float position with a pocket tester. Refer to page Disassemble the dashboard assembly as follows. FUEL If the continuity measured is incorrect, replace the respective parts.

Fill battery with electrolyte dilute sulfuric acid solution with acid concentration of Check the battery for proper charge by taking an electrolyte S. If the reading is 1.

Valve clearance out of limit. Worn valve guides or poor seating of valves. Repair or replace. Clutch control out of adjustment or too much play. Dragging clutch. Some clutch springs weakened. Distorted pressure plate or clutch plates. Broken gearshift cam. Transmission will 2. Distorted gearshift forks. Starting jet is clogged. Starting pipe is clogged. Air leakage from a joint between choke and carburetor. Check and retighten.

Steering stem nut over-tightened. Steering feels too 2. Worn bearing or race in steering stem. Distorted steering stem. Not enough pressure in tires. Defective ignition coil. No spark or 2. Defective spark plug. Defective trigger coil or ignitor unit. Mixture too rich. Adjust carburetor. Spark plug soon 2.